A relay is an electronic on/off switch. The system uses relays to switch lighting, heating zones, blinds, etc.
An actuator is the device on a manifold/radiator valve that opens/closes water flow (like a motorised “tap”). UFH/radiator zones need electronic actuators; the relays tell those actuators when to open/close.
Wall stats are optional. Temperature can be read from sensors built into smart light switches or separate room sensors.
The system links each room’s temperature to its heating actuator(s) via software logic.
Traditional: each switch is hard-wired to each light.
Smart: switches, sensors and devices connect back to a central panel/hub. The hub (brain) then switches/dims the relevant circuits.
This centralisation is what enables scenes, logic, remote control, and visibility in the Loxone App (or “the app”).
Yes. Many projects are hybrid: critical circuits (lighting, heating, security) are usually wired; additions/retrofits can be wireless (RF).
RF control is robust and different to Wi-Fi. Avoid relying on Wi-Fi for mission-critical functions.
Plan strips by room and area, noting 24 V vs 48 V, approximate lengths, and whether dimming or colour-change (RGBW) is needed.
Rule of thumb: size drivers per run (often ~5 m per RGBW channel as a planning baseline). Real capacity depends on cable length, placement, and wattage—finalised at design.
One RGBW driver has four channels (R, G, B, W). You can use it for one colour-changing run or repurpose channels to control multiple white-only loads independently (smart way to get “a lot for a little”).
Driver location: central panel or locally (e.g., above units/wardrobes) for ease of access and service.
Not usually. Dimming adds cost, heat, and space in the panel.
A pragmatic approach: one dimmed circuit per room (often the main downlights). If you have RGBW strips, those are inherently dimmable—others can be simple on/off.
Panel size (DIN rails) scales with features: dimming modules, blind controllers, audio, etc.
Adding several blinds and multi-zone audio can push you into a larger panel. Decide early if possible to avoid rework.
The system can be brand-agnostic on the front-end (switch styles, fittings) while keeping a unified brain for logic.
Using the manufacturer’s native switches/sensors can simplify programming and fault-finding, but designer/metal finishes are fine if wired back to inputs.
The system’s native audio is excellent for automation (doorbell chimes, alarm sounds, announcements) and background listening.
For audiophile listening and voice assistants (e.g., Alexa in kids’ rooms), Sonos-class gear can be added, often wirelessly.
A hybrid approach is common: native audio in hallways/WCs for automation; Sonos (or similar) in living/kitchen/bedrooms for music UX.
Often no pre-wiring is needed for control; modern modules can plug into indoor units and talk wirelessly to the system.
Many households prefer manual/scene-based AC control (to avoid night-time drafts). Trial a room first, then expand.
**“Do your plumbing as normal—**fit the manifold and electronic actuators—but no standalone thermostats.”
The system will replace the wall stats and handle room-by-room control via the app and central logic.
You’ll receive a customised O&M manual, schematics, schedules, and logins.
Admin rights belong to the owner. You can grant and revoke our support access at any time via the Loxone App (or “the app”).
With an active plan, remote support is prioritised within agreed SLAs.
You can temporarily grant remote access windows (time-bound) through the app for diagnostics/tweaks.
Use a simple spec spreadsheet (room/area, type, power (24 V/230 V), dimming, RGBW, length for strips, driver location, scenes).
Involve the family early for practical needs (wardrobes, desks, reading lights, picture lights, niches).
Prioritise getting the lighting circuits right before boarding/plastering.
Yes. Motion sensors, extra lights, blinds, and AV zones can be added. Wireless add-ons (RF) reduce disruption while keeping reliability.